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The page behind the cards warms and cools through the day: indigo before light, cream through the morning, gold in the afternoon, rose at the lamp-lighting hour. Nothing you read sits on it, so no word is harder to see at any hour.
Kept on this device, and used by every page.
Saiva · Jayankondam, Ariyalur, Tamil Nadu
Gangaikonda Cholapuram Brihadeeswarar Temple
கங்கைகொண்ட சோழபுரம் பிரகதீஸ்வரர் கோயில்
Brihadeeswarar with Periya Nayaki
General
The temple in short
Deity
Brihadeeswarar with Periya Nayaki
Where
Jayankondam, Ariyalur, Tamil Nadu · 11.21N 79.45E
Usual hours
6.30 am – 12 pm, 5 pm – 8 pm — hours change with festivals and the season; check before travelling.Were these right when you went?
Grahas
Suriyan
Visited for
Rajendra Chola’s temple, built to mark the march to the Ganga, with the lion well. Quiet even on Sivaratri; visited for confidence and for a father’s health.
Kept for Sun, one of the nine grahas a temple can be visited for.
Rajendra Chola I built this temple at the capital he founded after his campaign to the north, and the name of the city — the Chola who took the Ganga — is the claim it was built to carry. Water brought back from the Ganga is said to have been poured into the great tank, the Chola Gangam, beside it.
It is one of the three Great Living Chola Temples on the UNESCO World Heritage list. The city itself has gone; the temple stands almost alone in fields, which is why it is so quiet compared with Thanjavur.
What there is to see
Description
The vimana is a little lower than Thanjavur’s and its profile curves inward rather than rising straight, which is the clearest difference between the two.
A large Nandi faces the sanctum from the east. The sculpture on the outer walls is among the finest Chola work anywhere: the panel of Chandesa receiving a garland from Sivan, and the Saraswathi and Durga niches, are the ones usually pointed out.
A stepped well in the courtyard has a lion carved at its head and is known as the lion well. The Chola Gangam tank lies a short distance away.
The temple year
The days it is fullest
Maha Sivaratri is the largest day. The temple keeps a daily pooja but has no great festival crowd, and on most days of the year it is close to empty.
Getting there, and what else it is called
Also called
Gangaikondacholeeswaram, Brihadeeswarar Temple
Period
Chola, built under Rajendra I in the eleventh century
Reaching it
Gangaikonda Cholapuram is near Jayankondam in Ariyalur district, about 35 km north of Kumbakonam and roughly 70 km from Thanjavur. Kumbakonam and Ariyalur are the nearest railway stations.
Where it is
Gangaikonda Cholapuram Brihadeeswarar Temple, Jayankondam, Ariyalur, Tamil Nadu. The dot is the town, to about a kilometre — the gazetteer does not hold the gopuram's own coordinates.
Been to this temple? The things that change — whether the hours on this page were
right, whether the sannidhi was open, how long the queue was on a Saturday — are exactly
what no printed source keeps current, and what the next person travelling here needs.
Were the hours right when you went?
Is anything on this page wrong or out of date?
A photograph of the gopuram, the tank, or the notice board
A contribution carries a name, so a reader knows whose account it came from. That is why
it needs an account, and it is the only reason.
Parihaaram is traditional practice, offered for devotion and peace of mind; it is not a guaranteed cure of any condition. Temple hours change with festivals and the season, so check before travelling.