Black on white, and a border on everything, instead of the almanac’s greens and greys.
The page behind the cards warms and cools through the day: indigo before light, cream through the morning, gold in the afternoon, rose at the lamp-lighting hour. Nothing you read sits on it, so no word is harder to see at any hour.
Kept on this device, and used by every page.
Saiva · Aduthurai, Thanjavur, Tamil Nadu
Suryanar Koil
சூரியனார் கோயில்
Suriyanar (Surya Bhagavan) with Kol Theertha Vinayagar and Kasi Viswanathar
NavagrahaGeneralHealth
The temple in short
Deity
Suriyanar (Surya Bhagavan) with Kol Theertha Vinayagar and Kasi Viswanathar
Where
Aduthurai, Thanjavur, Tamil Nadu · 11.00N 79.44E
Usual hours
6 am – 12.30 pm, 4 pm – 8.30 pm — hours change with festivals and the season; check before travelling.Were these right when you went?
Grahas
Suriyan
Visited for
The only temple of the delta nine where the graha is the moolavar: Suriyan with all eight other grahas facing him. Sunday, and Rathasapthami in Thai, are its days; visited for health, eyesight, standing and a father’s welfare.
Kept for Sun, one of the nine grahas a temple can be visited for.
The sthala purana has it that a sage called Kalava was afflicted with leprosy and worshipped the nine grahas, who relieved him of it. The devas took the view that the grahas had gone beyond their office in doing so, and Brahma is said to have cursed the nine to carry the same affliction themselves.
The nine are then said to have come to this stretch of the delta and worshipped Sivan until the curse was lifted, and to have been told to stay here and give darshan together. That is the reason offered for the unusual arrangement inside: the Sun stands in the sanctum with the other eight around him, instead of standing in a group of nine at the edge of a Sivan temple as he does everywhere else.
What is recorded
Documented history
The temple is generally assigned to the Chola period, and the older name of the settlement — Kulottunga Cholapuram — carries a Chola king’s name. The nine-temple circuit as it is walked today is a settled local custom of the delta rather than something laid down in a single early text.
What there is to see
Description
Suriyan stands in the sanctum with Usha and Pratyusha. This is the only one of the nine where the graha himself is the presiding deity; at the other eight he is a shrine inside a Sivan temple.
The remaining eight grahas have separate shrines of their own set around the inner court, each turned towards the Sun, with Guru Bhagavan facing him directly. Kol Theertha Vinayagar stands near the entrance, and Kasi Viswanathar and Visalakshi have a shrine within the same enclosure.
A tank called the Surya Pushkarani lies outside the wall. The whole complex is small, and can be walked through in half an hour when there is no queue.
The temple year
The days it is fullest
Sunday is the day here, and Rathasapthami in Thai — kept as the Sun’s own day — is the largest gathering of the year.
Because each graha has his own shrine and his own weekday, the temple has a different queue on each day of the week, and the day a planet changes sign brings people to that planet’s shrine in particular.
Getting there, and what else it is called
Also called
Kulottunga Cholapuram, Suriyanar Temple
Period
Chola period, with later additions
Reaching it
Suryanar Koil is beside Aduthurai, about 15 km from Kumbakonam on the road towards Mayiladuthurai. Kumbakonam is the nearest large railway station, and Kanjanur is about 2 km away, so the two are almost always taken together.
Where it is
Suryanar Koil, Aduthurai, Thanjavur, Tamil Nadu. The dot is the town, to about a kilometre — the gazetteer does not hold the gopuram's own coordinates.
Been to this temple? The things that change — whether the hours on this page were
right, whether the sannidhi was open, how long the queue was on a Saturday — are exactly
what no printed source keeps current, and what the next person travelling here needs.
Were the hours right when you went?
Is anything on this page wrong or out of date?
A photograph of the gopuram, the tank, or the notice board
A contribution carries a name, so a reader knows whose account it came from. That is why
it needs an account, and it is the only reason.
Parihaaram is traditional practice, offered for devotion and peace of mind; it is not a guaranteed cure of any condition. Temple hours change with festivals and the season, so check before travelling.