Black on white, and a border on everything, instead of the almanac’s greens and greys.
The page behind the cards warms and cools through the day: indigo before light, cream through the morning, gold in the afternoon, rose at the lamp-lighting hour. Nothing you read sits on it, so no word is harder to see at any hour.
Kept on this device, and used by every page.
Sakta (Amman) · Kolkata, North 24 Parganas, West Bengal
Dakshineswar Kali Temple
Bhavatarini Kali, Ramakrishna Paramahamsa’s Devi, on the Hooghly
HealthGeneral
The temple in short
Deity
Bhavatarini Kali, Ramakrishna Paramahamsa’s Devi, on the Hooghly
Where
Kolkata, North 24 Parganas, West Bengal · 22.66N 88.36E
Usual hours
6 am – 12.30 pm, 3 pm – 8.30 pm — hours change with festivals and the season; check before travelling.Were these right when you went?
Grahas
Rahu Chandran
Visited for
Rani Rashmoni’s temple, where Sri Ramakrishna served as priest. Kali Puja and Snan Yatra are its days.
Kept for Moon and Rahu, 2 of the nine grahas a temple can be visited for.
The temple’s own account has it that Rani Rashmoni, about to set out by boat on pilgrimage to Kashi, was told by the Devi in a dream not to go, but to build a temple on the bank of the Ganga and worship her there instead.
She is said to have turned the boats back and bought the land the same year. Whether or not the dream is taken literally, the temple was certainly built in place of that pilgrimage.
What is recorded
Documented history
Dakshineswar was built in 1855 by Rani Rashmoni, a widow of a landed Kaivarta family, at a time when a temple founded by someone outside the brahmin castes was itself contested.
Ramakrishna Paramahamsa served as priest here for most of his adult life, and the room he lived in is kept as it was. Sarada Devi lived in the Nahabat in the same compound. Much of what is known about both of them was written down by people who came to this temple, so the history is unusually well attested.
What there is to see
Description
The main temple is a nine-spired building raised on a high plinth, with the Devi standing on Sivan in the sanctum.
Twelve identical Siva temples stand in a row along the river ghat, which is the view of the place everyone recognises.
Ramakrishna’s room, the Radha-Krishna temple and the Panchavati grove where he sat are all in the compound. Belur Math is directly across the Hooghly and is reached by ferry.
The temple year
The days it is fullest
Kali Puja and Durga Puja are the great days, and Snan Yatra fills the ghat.
Ramakrishna’s birthday in Phalguna brings a very large crowd, and Tuesdays and Saturdays are the weekly days.
Getting there, and what else it is called
Also called
Dakshineswar Kali Mandir, Bhavatarini Temple
Period
Built in 1855 by Rani Rashmoni
Reaching it
Dakshineswar is on the east bank of the Hooghly north of Kolkata, with its own metro station and a suburban railway halt. The ferry to Belur Math runs from the ghat beside the temple.
Where it is
Dakshineswar Kali Temple, Kolkata, North 24 Parganas, West Bengal. The dot is the town, to about a kilometre — the gazetteer does not hold the gopuram's own coordinates.
Been to this temple? The things that change — whether the hours on this page were
right, whether the sannidhi was open, how long the queue was on a Saturday — are exactly
what no printed source keeps current, and what the next person travelling here needs.
Were the hours right when you went?
Is anything on this page wrong or out of date?
A photograph of the gopuram, the tank, or the notice board
A contribution carries a name, so a reader knows whose account it came from. That is why
it needs an account, and it is the only reason.
Parihaaram is traditional practice, offered for devotion and peace of mind; it is not a guaranteed cure of any condition. Temple hours change with festivals and the season, so check before travelling.