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The page behind the cards warms and cools through the day: indigo before light, cream through the morning, gold in the afternoon, rose at the lamp-lighting hour. Nothing you read sits on it, so no word is harder to see at any hour.
Kept on this device, and used by every page.
Saiva · Chennai, Tamil Nadu
Kapaleeswarar Temple, Mylapore
மயிலாப்பூர் கபாலீஸ்வரர் கோயில்
Kapaleeswarar and Karpagambal, with the peacock shrine
GeneralMarriage
The temple in short
Deity
Kapaleeswarar and Karpagambal, with the peacock shrine
Where
Chennai, Tamil Nadu · 13.03N 80.27E
Usual hours
5.30 am – 12.30 pm, 4 pm – 9 pm — hours change with festivals and the season; check before travelling.Were these right when you went?
Grahas
Chandran Sukran
Visited for
Where Parvathi worshipped as a peahen, and Sambandar brought a girl back from a pot of ash. The Panguni Peruvizha and Arupathimoovar are its festivals.
Kept for Moon and Venus, 2 of the nine grahas a temple can be visited for.
The sthala purana has it that Parvathi worshipped Sivan here in the form of a peahen, under the punnai tree that still stands in the outer court. Mayil is the Tamil word for a peacock, and Mylapore is read from it.
The temple’s other story is Sambandar’s. Poompavai, the daughter of a merchant of this town, is said to have died of snakebite, and her father to have kept her ashes in a pot. When Sambandar came, he is said to have sung over the pot and the girl to have risen from it; the hymn is still known as the Poompavai Padigam.
What is recorded
Documented history
Mylapore is a Tevaram Paadal Petra Sthalam, so worship here is older than the building by a long way.
The temple standing today is of the Vijayanagara period. An older Kapaleeswarar temple is traditionally said to have stood closer to the sea and to have been lost; where exactly it stood, and how it was lost, has been argued over for a long time and is not settled.
What there is to see
Description
The eastern gopuram is the one in every photograph of Mylapore, and it faces the temple tank across the road.
The punnai tree with the peahen shrine beneath it is in the outer prakaram. Karpagambal’s shrine is on the south side of the inner court.
The sixty-three Nayanmar bronzes are kept in the outer prakaram, and they are what is carried in procession at the Arupathimoovar festival.
The temple year
The days it is fullest
The Panguni Peruvizha runs for ten days. On the eighth, Arupathimoovar, all sixty-three Nayanmars are taken round the four Mada streets, and Mylapore is closed to traffic for it.
The float festival on the tank in Thai, Maha Sivaratri, the Aadi Fridays at the Amman shrine and the Margazhi mornings are the other days.
Getting there, and what else it is called
Also called
Kapali Kovil, Mylai
Period
The present temple is of the Vijayanagara period, over a much older foundation
Reaching it
The temple is in Mylapore, in the middle of Chennai. Thirumayilai MRTS station is a few minutes away, Chennai Egmore about 6 km, and buses stop on the tank road.
Where it is
Kapaleeswarar Temple, Mylapore, Chennai, Tamil Nadu. The dot is the town, to about a kilometre — the gazetteer does not hold the gopuram's own coordinates.
Been to this temple? The things that change — whether the hours on this page were
right, whether the sannidhi was open, how long the queue was on a Saturday — are exactly
what no printed source keeps current, and what the next person travelling here needs.
Were the hours right when you went?
Is anything on this page wrong or out of date?
A photograph of the gopuram, the tank, or the notice board
A contribution carries a name, so a reader knows whose account it came from. That is why
it needs an account, and it is the only reason.
Parihaaram is traditional practice, offered for devotion and peace of mind; it is not a guaranteed cure of any condition. Temple hours change with festivals and the season, so check before travelling.